good work karthik….
but Suzuki will have to hire new designers… the bike is not tat good looking…. Suzuki is not keeping their standards in Indian market… they do produce the best designs and one of the fastest bike … The HAYABUSA… but they r not taking it serious the competition they have to face in Indian market… Yamaha came up with fz16 with affordable price and sharp looks and a good engine performance( i wouldn’t say the best… did try tat one last day… not much impressed with the output of the engine…)
true karthik it does look like a unicorn… hope it does give the performance tat uni gives…
and i cant stop me from saying this…
Every thing started from the ” Male ” the Bajaj Pulsar… Suzuki should look at their designs….. (this is not coz i own a pulsar) ….

forgot.. to comment on six gears….. hmm well R15 had six gears but it had the max power of 17 PS… well six gears and 13.8 b hp sounds interesting….. hope it would give a higher top speed….

@ vishnuec06

der z graphics on d tank, bt nt elaborate as Unicorn…yup bad impression abt fairing..and in fact no plastic scoops as Hunk…This is a style of 2005 model bike…This bike is mainly for mileage…60-65 km/l…125cc HeroHonda Glamour is also havin only 60 km/l…13.8 bhp z nt a bad power..other 150 bike are offering 14-14.5 bhp..

@ vishnuec06

I haven’t driven FZ16. I said it gives better o/p , ‘coz I ‘ve read in some other blog as I mentioned b4…Lemme ask , do u own a Hunk or any other HeroHonda bike…? But ‘m sure abt 1 thing… FZ16 is better than Hunk when considering a ride on cities..Its a perfect street bike and hence named “Lord of Streets”..The wider tyre’s makes our confidence level higher ven v cum to tilt the vehicle…But ‘m doubted about the riding comfort on a long trip…The seating is not perfect for a long trip…I wud suggest Unicorn for a long trip than FZ16 or any HeroHonda (in 150 class)…

@ vishnuec06

How can u say FZ copied the muscular look of Hunk..? Nothin is der in FZ that matches with Hunk…FZ is havin its own unique style…

@ anish

utold u have beaten hunk in a race, might b the hunk’s driver was a small bouy.. I have beaten a pulsar 200 n apache 160 … both driven by good riders …Nothing can beat(except p220 n zma) hunks acceleration…okie.

Well I don’t know about Hunk…Have heard it has the same engine of CBZ…I ‘ve driven CBZ . Above 95 km/hr I felt like the all the engine parts are gonna be thrown away…Well 2 of ma frnds raced in CBZ and P150…Both of dem had driven both d bikes…At both these times P150 won. Of course may b ‘coz of the rider…But even the HeroHonda bike owners told me the bike shivers than a P150 above 100km/hr…Bt Hunk must have a refined engine… I dunno more abt that…

And I cannot beieve you beat RTR160 and P200 …where was the race held ..can u give more details…?

Yeah thats ryt… Race was on the Edappon-Pandalam road with p200…Its very hard to go beat a pulsar on straight roads, it can easily moove upto 120kmph, while hunk van manage with a maximum of 95-100.. I had beaten p200 coz of hunks acceleration itself.. In straight roads i couldnt get even get to a p200 i xperienced, but while negotiated curves,i cud easily manuevre n cud gain a couple of meteres ahead of p200… I hav also driven p200, and surely its an awsome machine, but both my hunks n pulsars power seemed to b same..thats what i experienced…
Today also i tried to mark 100 kmph with my bike, but seems imposible… And one more thing. one of my friend(Chind ,Mech sem 5) told he made a 120kmph mark with his cbz???? what can you say about that????

@ vishnuec06

If so , Chind is lucky enough to have that bike….If a Hunk only could mark 100 km/hr, hw cum a CBZ?..Do u believe dat ? He mite hav achieved that mark on a downhill road..No way CBZ above 110 ..
Pulsar is also havin good acceleration..Bt should service regularly..If nt it myte affect the engine performance. I dont think it wud affect a HeroHonda engine as such…

u hav done a grt job chettan…u hav given a gud description abt this bike….

@ vishnuec06

Sure. A wheelie or a stoppie can be done with 150 cc bikes..chk youtube…Most of dem are done wid P150’s and CBZ’s….For a stoppie they says a front disc is necessary..

Doesnt know if we could improve mileage also using K&N filters..I think Anish has a solution for dis Que…

In the Stoppie the body position plays a great role. You should keep your body centered over the bike and is the most significant aspect while performing a Stoppie. You must first get your body dead-center over the middle of the bike with your head straight, shoulders squared and arms stiff. Having your body off-center is what’s going to cause the back end to kick out once you get the back wheel up.

Don’t use any rear brake and don’t expect the rear brake to keep you from going over like it does

with wheelies.
Keep the bike in 1st gear, becoz you’ll want 2 accelerate once you come down to stabilize the bike keep stoppieing.

1. Basic Stoppie :

Once you’re on speed and your body properly positioned pull the clutch in and get on the brake.

Make the initial brake input pretty strong, about 80 percent of full braking pressure, then back off as the bike comes up. Weight transfer is also important aspst while performing a stopppie. At the same time you start braking, throw your body forward to move your weight out over the front wheel.

Starting from the middle of the seat, bring your shoulders up and slide up along the fuel tankuntil you’re off the seat just a little. When you move forward, make sure your body stays as straight as possible. Remember to keep your arms straight with elbows locked so your weight shift doesn’t unintentionally steer the bike one way or the other.

As the back end comes up, gradually let off the brake as you approach the balance point. As long as you’re on that brake hard, it’ll keep coming up. You know you’re near the balance point when you’re barely on the brake and that back wheel is floating–not going any higher or dropping any lower.

For basic stoppies, you don’t really have to think about steering–just keep your arms straight and you’ll keep rolling straight. It’s only when you start rolling them out really long that you have to worry about steering. The only difference between a 150-foot endo and, say, a 600-foot one is being able to steer it. Steering an endo is just like steering into a corner on two wheels–you have to countersteer. If the back end kicks to the right, push on the right bar and steer into it to pull the front wheel the same way the back end is going. The higher the bike is, the easier it is to steer.

For basic endos, just ride it out to a complete stop, let the back end fall, let out the clutch and ride away. You always want your body straight right up until the moment the tire touches the ground. Any time you move, you add a steering input to the front end. Don’t be too worried if the bike gets a little out of line–it can get eight to 10 degrees off and you can still ride it out without highsiding. Sometimes I’ll tap the rear brake just before the back end comes down. This stops the tire spinning and tightens the chain to keep it from slapping when it hits. It sounds better–a little style thing.

2. 180 Endo :

For doing a 180 Endo you need to know nicely how to steer. Instead of trying to steer the bike straight, intentionally add a steering input to bring the back end of the bike around, then control that input so it doesn’t come around too fast or too slow.

To launch a 180, get the bike up to the balance point with your body centered you don’t want to look for the balance point when the back end is already kicking around. The higher you are, the easier it is to steer and the smoother the back end comes around. Once you’re up, start the rotation by countersteering. It takes a major input on the handlebars to make the back end come around. To get it to crank–to move all that weight around–really takes some strength. You can’t just snap it around. Avoid the temptation to roll your body into the rotation–to maintain control over the bike, you really want to stay above the bike, on top of it at all times.

As the back end starts to come around, the bike will usually stall because you don’t have enough momentum behind it. More height is better here–at a lower height you need more speed to snap the bike around. One way to make it spin around faster is to use more brake. The 180 endo is probably the only endo where you need to increase–not decrease–brake pressure as the endo progresses. At the end of the rotation, you’re probably going to have to pull the brake back to that initial 80 percent to get it to come around. You’re always at a dead stop at the end of a 180.

3. One-Hander :

For “One handler” bring the bike up just like a normal endo, and once you get to the balance point let go of the handlebar with your left hand. It’s almost that easy. The key here is to keep your right arm extra stiff to make sure the bike doesn’t drift either way when you let your left hand off. When you remove your left hand, make absolutely sure your right hand is not going to move. You don’t want to have your right arm half-bent when you throw your left arm off.

Supporting your body weight with your legs is important because you can’t really use your upper body to hold yourself on the bike with only one arm. To make this work, get all your weight up on the tank (get your package out of the way first!) and jam your knees into the tank cutout to hold you up so you don’t have to press on the bars.

You throw the bike in neutral before pulling a one-hander–that way the back end won’t come down when you let off the clutch.

Stoppie SetUp :

Setting Up your byke and your self for the stoppie. The factory settings should work fine.Just make sure you have enough preload and compression damping so you aren’t at the end of the travel when you’re up on the endo–if you bottom out the fork when you’re up on the front wheel, you’re going over. Run around 25 psi in the front tire to give a little more surface area and help it hook up better. Steel-braided brake lines are a must, and you can get the feel from Ferodo brake pads, street compound. Check the brake-mounting hardware all the time–especially if you’re getting good and coming in really fast, or doing a lot of stoppies. You may have the caliper fixing bolts and the bolt that holds the caliper together loosen up. So check everything. You may like to turn my handlebars out a bit–a wider stance gives more leverage and makes the stoppie a bit easier to steer. And always always run a steering damper, turned way up. A tank-slapper when you’re up on one wheel is bad news.

Getting Started :

Most people think the best way to learn how to do endos is baby stoppies–you know, roll in at five mph, jam on the front brake and try not to get thrown off when the back end shoots skyward.

These are so dangerous–you grab all the brake at once, causing the fork to dive too fast and the rear end to rebound and kick up, and it’s easy to lose the front end or flip over when you hit the bottom of the suspension travel.

A better way is to come into your practice area fast and then slowly, smoothly grab more brake.

When you feel the brake pads starting to bite, throw your weight up a little and grab just a bit more brake. If you do this methodically, you’ll soon float the back wheel a few feet and everything will be smooth–none of the sharp, abrupt braking or suspension loading that will cause the front wheel to wash out or the suspension to bottom. When it feels like you’re getting up too high, let off the brake slowly and you’ll be back on the ground. When you’re new at it, anything more than two feet will make you say, “Oh my god, I’m going to flip over.” But that’s the best way to learn, and if you take it slow and increase your brake pressure incrementally as your comfort level increases, you’ll be floating at the balance point in no time.

There are theories on correcting stoppies gone bad, but when you’re really at the balance point and you feel like you’re going over, there’s not much you can do to save it. It’s not like a wheelie, where you can just tap the back brake or chop the throttle and bring it back down. With most stoppies, you’ve got the bike in gear and the clutch pulled in. In theory, you should be able to just dump the clutch and hit the gas, and the gyroscopic force of the rear wheel spinning will actually pull the bike back down. But when you’re way up and it’s going over, the balance point for a stoppie is so fine and there’s so much momentum carrying the bike forward that by the time you realize you’ve crossed over, it’s too late–you’re going off the bike. Well, as they say, if it were easy, everybody would be doing it.

One of the biggest disadvantages of an Indian bike is the lack of low end torque.
Low end torque is very much helpful for a beginner to learn wheelie.
So to make things lil easier we need to “clutch” the bike for wheelie.
Clutching is by far the best way to get wheelies up, regardless of whether the bike has enough power to power it up. But it is the only way to bring an Indian bike up. It does wear out clutch plates a little faster than normal. There are many advantages to clutching wheelies vs. powering wheelies.
1. It allows you to wheelie bikes that don’t have enough power to power it up.
2. You can wheelie at lower rpm’s, and therefore slower speeds. This allows beginners to keep a wheelie up longer, with out being at the balance point.
3. The launch is more predictable. When powering a wheelie up, the front end comes up relatively slow. Then when the front end is about 3 feet off the ground, the front end jumps up very fast under full throttle, making for a scary and unpredictable launch. When clutching up wheelies right, the front jumps up close to the balance point. From there you just play with the throttle to fine adjust the height. After a little practice, clutching becomes very predictable and not frightening at all

How to clutch wheelies
There are a couple methods for clutching wheelies. I prefer the second one.
Method 1: First accelerate with the clutch engaged. Then, with the throttle still opened, pull in the clutch with one finger, to the point where the clutch disengages. With the engine still under throttle, quickly let the clutch back out as the rpm is rising.
Method 2: Close the throttle, and then pull the clutch in all the way, with one finger. Then twist the throttle and dump the clutch.
When learning to clutch, only rev up the engine a little bit at first before letting out the clutch. This will give you the feel for clutching. Then gradually increase the rpm’s before dumping the clutch, until the front end jumps up close to the balance point.(contd..)

Reduce the throttle as the front end comes up to the balance point. If it comes up too far, gently push the rear brake to bring the bike back forward. When clutching second and third gear wheelies, the bike may need extra help, depending on what bike it is. If clutching alone doesn’t get the wheelie up, then bounce at the same time. This is done by pushing down on the bike (with your arms and legs) at the same time you open the throttle, and then leaning back slightly when dropping the clutch..
Always wear a HELMET and protective gears.

What is the on road price in Kerala ?

I am planning to buy a new bike. But I am confused. Which one should I buy..At present I like Enfield Bullet, Pulsar 200 and FZ 16..
I need everyone’s suggestion..

Y did u opt Bullet, FZ and P200…? :0
What do u find common in these bikes ?

If you are planning to buy a P200, just w8 4 sumtym…,’coz P200 is coming with Fi engine soon…:D

I don’t feel that bad by the looks of this byk..’coz of the tank design. As discussed earlier it doesnot have a muscular look..

Oh, so dat was the reason for selecting those bykz…Money
Well but these differ entirely in their performance..

FZ16 is a perfect street byk..Its designed to run on traffic roads. It doesnot have enough power..Highway rides will get tougher wid ur hands on FZ..

For a better drive on highways Bullet is d best..but on traffic conditions it will test ur patience ..

P200 hav both power and can be driven in cities like an FZ, but FZ is much lighter which vil b more reliable than P200..

But seating position of Bullet is better than that of P200..hence better comfort on highways

On concluding I wud say P200 is an average of Bullet and FZ
hi hi

Sure…Did you chose ur byk ?

Welcum Riju

@ Karthik

Most probably a Bullet..looking for long rides

@ VIPIN KUMAR. V

Though Deepshs answer sounds funny, I think he is true..
A Hummer , at least a H3 , can only manage Pattoor road..

Enfield can be driven. It doesnt give dat trouble as a sport byk gives..But as YAMAHA FZ16 is a street bike, which has wider tyres, I think it will be sum what suitable.

It makes d bike 2 be so smooth wid dese N2 filled tyres….
even its happy that air shud b checked once in 5 months

As said earlier tyre pressure needed 2 b chkd only 1ce in 5 months..so doesnt mind goyn 2 EKM or TVM

or else don’t wry . if u can’t find fellows to fill tyres with N2, just go to an Automotive A/C mechanic or repair shop… in fact all car service stations will have a N2 kit to check for A/C compressor fluid leaks.
now how u make his nozzle fit on d tire’s nozzle will be ur project

Hey,you must have a ride and feel the difference.. d main purpose of fillin N2 in ur tyre is dat…it keeps tyres temperature low…so even u drive ur bike at 100KMph nitrogen oppose to increasing in heat n keeps ur tyre temp low…and this is good 4 ur tyre life

Hey, its written in the owners manual
1) first 500 kms rpm should be maintained below 4.5 k
2) 500 to 1000 kms rpm should be maintained below 6 k

1) Use simple unleaded petrol , thereby increasing engine life .
2) Its not the speed which is to be limited , its actually the engine speed (rpm)
So as said before keep rpm below 4 k for all gears .
3) well , you can shift to next gear when your rpm is between 3.5 k to 4 k and shift to
previous gear when your rpm falls below 2.5 k and/or around 2 k .(this for new bike
and for pleasure ride) . remember speed won’t harm but rpm will . like if you are going upto 9 k rpm in the 1 st gear and speed is below 50 , its definetly not good for new
bike.
Also do not downshift more than once at a time like say from 5 th to 1 st . Shift one by one
leave the clutch fully after every shift and shift at proper rpm .

I think this is what you asked for .

both bike are good… but i wud suggest for 1984 model since its 350 std bull n will give you nice response. but the price is pretty high, try bargaining for 20-23k if it seems tat d bike doesn’t require much of outer work. just ride the bike once n let the handle bar an see if the bike pulls towards one side. if yes , then don go for it since there will be chassis prob n will put you under trouble. rest is fine wid this bike..

Coming to 500 cc, its great bike but for starter like you its not suitable since you’ll feel the crunch for your money wen it consumes fuel more. moreover, it shd be regularly checked for floss. 500 cc price is not dat pretty fair u can bargain 4-8 k less.

anywhz go for wat yo heart says…

der are 2 – spoke covered alloys , 2-spoke opening alloys , 3-spoke covered alloys or 3 spoke opening alloys.

Rado is one of d best product. Whichever company you choose all you have to mind is that the alloys should not be Chinese… thats all!

It totally depends on what you are looking for? If you wanna bike for cruising and mileage go for TBTS and if you want original Bullet looks and lot of chrome then gor for Machismo. Both are fantastic bike….

But still i’ll say.. go for Machismo 500 cc (out of TBTS and Machismo)!!

thunderbird probably is the one that has tread the farthest from the bullet league., it’s looks weird and does.t really give you the ‘bullet’ (british bike look) effect, machismo on the other hand is a very powerful bike, cause of it’s cast iron engine and all, more than the bullet electra’s and all…, so machismo is a fare better in my opinion.,

it only depends on what u r looking 4
if u want lot of chrome & thump go 4 machismo
if u want cruiser looks with good mileage go 4 TBTS
both r good & long lasting

well bro if u r talking about for long time go for bullet std 350

don’t get confused
just go with ur preferences.
all the best 4 ur decision….

Teflon is actually a kind of plastic, which is one of the most slippery material on planet. Its purpose on bullet paint is to keep it intact, keep is scratch less, keep its original color for a longer time . to see the difference test it for 2 year +. u will see the result. but having only the gloss on paint in mind is wrong criteria to judge teflon.
If you want a shining appearance in your bike then just apply a wax polish on your bike..Its cheaper..Bu the main purpose of Teflon coating is that is protects then applied parts from rusts..

Actually two types r ther…one for 1.6k n other 2.4k…. Speaking k and n filter will increase ur bike’s mileage . . . But its not good for the engine too run lean . . . It’ll loose performance and it’ll over heat the engine in time frying ur piston rings and oil seals . . . . In order to make the motor run normally u should reset the carb to meet the new air fuel ratio i.e 14:1 .i.e, air and fuel respectively . . . This makes the engine run normally and will give out more juice from the engine .with out over heating . . .
If the air filter is not set up properly small dust particles may go in to the carb and in to the engine . . . Causing small scores on the piston which will raise the oil up to the head and clog . . Thats y prolonged use of k and n filter on some bikes give out black smoke. . its because of the oil getting burnt up in the head . . . U’ll loose performance. . .

Hey just wanted to answer to your question about FZ16. But i want to check with you before telling about the bike. Are you looking for biking or Long drives or only stunts or ???

Here is my answer about…..

FZ16 is cool bike which has launched recently in the Indian market with all latest technology. In this we have mono suspension (Not the one like Unicorn, it’s better than that), Front shocks are really damn good man (u can use for stoppies), coming to rear tyre is the main attraction of the bike (Lots and lots of road grip), for long drives though the seating is comfortable and i don’t it’s good for long drives. Did you people notice about that bike or not, but i did it have. A tale lamp just below the head light in front where it focuses in front of Tyre (It would be useful for the people who go for long drives and travel in the night) and last but not least it have the gravity to the center of the bike.

All above are pros and here are the cons about the same….

Initial pick is damn good man, i have not seen such bike in 150 CC segment, here only one thing is there where we can say it as a con. when we touching a top speed of more than 105 kmph, it gives you different sound from the silencer which I didn’t like it. And another con is dat it’s not having better power comparing to other 150s.

But apart from 2 con, rest all is good man. Hah sorry i forgot about one more con is about the price it’s more than rest of the bikes and i think the technology they have introduced in the bike would deserved that price.

But even though it’s only your decision matters about the bike which you purchase….

There are many good brands roots, minda, hella, Bosch..

Roots horn comes as a dual pack for Rs.420-500 (varies in certain states)
These are normal horns and have good life..

Loud ones will be Bosch FC4 dual horn. These are some where near 500 Rs. These are pretty loud.

HELLA is another product.
There are many variants in them, just chose what u need.

You can even try a FIAMM twin horn(skoda horns)…….
every1 vil give way 4 you after fitting tat!!!!hehe

u must put a relay xtra……..

guys i wanna to bye a bike, i have options- suzuki GS150R newly launched, unicorn,hunk,fz, new cbz- my refrence is more for the smoothness of bike rather then its power, and than omes the avg.,so plz help me to choose a bike and why?

very gud..

Well, Unicorn is a gud byk… Since GS150R have only a test ride result ( and no practical ride report), I wud suggest a Unicorn itself.. But if you are talking about power and mileage, go for a Suzuki GS150R. Cuz its havin 6 gears.. It will give a 55-65 km/l mileage.. Test ride reports are it has a smooth engine like Unicorn..

With a 5000 rpm in a Unicorn, you cud reach approx. 60-70 km/h
With a 5000 rpm in a GS150R, you cud reach approx. 75-85 km/h

It wud be better to implement a Bajaj Pulsar’s handlebar, even if your selection is either Unicorn or GS150R…This wud make your byk stable than the company handlebar..

My friend while a test ride got that speed…If not , wud you mind what speed you achieve at 5000 rpm in 6th gear ?
I haven’t driven that byk..Bt infact u r ryt. Its havin gud height compared to other 150’s. But r u sure that the Pulsar’s handle wud crush on the tank in a large scale…? I have seen many of them fixed on Unicorn, CBZ etc…It brushes the tank, but only in a small scale. I think its same in the case in GS150R.

I know u haven’t yet tested its performance. But so far how do you feel…?

Thanks Vikas for ur feedback…

Have you ever driven an Unicorn (latest)..?
If yes, how wud you distinguish both byk …

Well mentioning about the price, I would say both bikes costs almost equal bucks…Even the P150 and P180 has only something around Rs.1000-2000 price difference (in Kerala)..Anyway P180 and Suzuki GS150R doesn’t costs much difference in price…

Both P180 and Suzuki GS150R differs in their own ways..P180 delivers 16.5bhp where as GS150R delivers 13.8bhp. But P180 has got only 5 gears only ver as GS has got 6 gears.. This gives a good mileage for GS150R..GS150 gives 50-60 km/l ver as P180 gives an average of 35-45 km/l..(In fact one of ma friend who drives his P180 not more than 5000 rpm is gettin 49km/l…It depends on how you handle ur beast)..

I suggest Suzuki GS150R as d best choice.. The engine is so smooth.. I hope it will give you both d power and mileage you need..

Thanks a lottt Vikas, and I hope manjunath has got everythin to take a decision …

@ Jas Arora

No, not at all. There are many differences (other than looks) between first and latest Unicorn. First Unicorn didn’t give us enough mileage. But the latest one gives better in its class mileage. First Unicorn had a major problem; over 100kmph the acceleration would get cut off (more than 80% of the first model bike had this problem). And it was not any sort of safety measure implemented by Honda. But the latest Unicorn is rectified from this problem. As such there were many difference between 1st and latest Unicorn..

If you are planning to buy a 2nd hand Wing rider (Unicorn), go for the one having company spoke/alloy wheels. Thats the best way you can identify the rectified model Unicorn.

@ above

nic 2 hear dat

@ ABDUL

Spare parts cost will be higher than a Pulsar, but they wud be of better quality…Oil change and service will be same as that of other bykz..i think Vikas can answer to this… And der z no prob wid GS handle. I just mentioned Pulsars handle is a bit heavier (and hence more stable) than others..And about headlamp ..company provides a lamp of 35W,..its enough..but if you feel its not, then OSRAM H4 55/60 watt halogen bulb, 65.00 Rs ( varies in different areas ), will satisfy ur need…

Nice to hear dat Murali… I think dats d best choice

nice to hear dat Rimmy…
U had tuk a gud decision. I have not heard any demerits abt dis beast from any of d GS owners…
Anyway tnx Rimmy, n all d best

hei. guys did anybody chekkd on d new yamaha “fazer i50″….. ?
ya.. it seems to b an fz16 wid a pretty gud fairing… may b its a bettr choice to buy d fazer dan an fz….

hi…guys

i m planing to buy a bike but m dam confusd which to buy FZ16,fazer,unicorn.gs150r.pulsar150.. can u guys please help me …?? please tell me which is the best bike in its class(150cc) even i want a better milage n gud pik up n power….please sugest me guys whch is d best in everythng like bhp etc etc n all d above thngs please
thank you….

hii

jas,

tanx a lot for all d details so ur vote is 4 gs..ok n how much does gs gves u milage

If you are looking for power and instant pickup, good looks, and decent mileage of 40-45, go for an Apache 160/180 or go for Pulsar 150/180 or CBZx. You need to bend a little to ride these bikes. The Apache is more Sporty and lighter and easy to handle. The pulsar and Cbz are bulky and muscular. The Apache and Pulsars come with digital gagets and rear disc brake, rear gas-charged shocks, etc, but both engines are not very smooth. The CBZx DOES NOT HAVE a gas-charged rear shock absorber nor digital gagets. So, the Apache and Pulsar are definitely more bang for the buck than CBZx.

If you are looking for smooth ride, good mileage of 50-55, commuter/executive/family bike, then chose either the Unicorn or Suzuki GS150. Good for executives. Both bike have good gradual power, but dont expect instant pickup like Apache or Pulsar in these bikes. Unicorn lacks digtal gagets, but has OLD-TECHNOLOGY MONOSHOCK without linkage. Suzuki GS150 has digital gagets, 6 gears, engine balancer, etc, but lacks monoshock. I feel Suzuki GS150 is currently more value for money than Unicorn. Suzuki should bring out another GS150 without digital speedo and reduce the price

If style is the only thing that matters, then go for the overpriced yamahas, either Fz16, Fazer, or R15. R15 is only 150 cc bike with linkage monoshock, but its for sporty riding only and very expensive. The fz and fazer only look good, but lack pickup and give less mileage of 35-40. Frankly, the Yamahas are very overpriced.

Just choose a bike that meets your requirements.

@ Jas Arora

SUB : Eco and Power mode in GS150R

Once the power mode is opted, GS150R starts behaving a racing animal and the eco mode let’s you to conserve fuel. Eco and power modes of GS150R functions to cater to wide range of speeds and riding conditions.

Is it really true Kartik? because what i have heard about ECO and Power mode is, If eco mode is selected once you cross 4200 rpm white indicator start blinking which means if you continue driving at this rpm fuel will not saved. Whereas in Power mode even if you cross 5k rpm it won’t warn you. So i think it has nothing to do with fuel saving unless you follow indication from the white light.
I actually bought one and it’s been a week now. whenever white light blinks i assume i need to change gear or slow down so it won’t go beyond the blinker set rpm.

Dear Bike lovers, I’m here to share few observations on my Suzuki GS150R which help for new bikers to opt and here is the review. Yes this is suitable to Excecutives, Family, Commutters, Office goers may be for some college students.
Here is the positive (+)
> Look and Design which will suit for all class (I’m married my wife wont like student class bike since the seat rear is not appropriate) This will suit for all.
> Bulky (Macho Fuel Tank) capacity of 15 ltrs and fuel indicator
> State of Art Tachometer with 3 stage Trip meter- ODO, Trip A&B, Chromeplated RPM meter, Digital Time Display which helps to see time for office commuters.
> Balanced weight (150CC and kerb wg 150 kg) ideal like enfield
>Six Speed Gear, 1 down and rest up and 13.8 Bhp
> No jerk even in 4-6 gears with speed low as 35 kms and feather touch gear which gives unique silky drive
> Powerful Head beam and integrated LED rear lighting including turn indicator, gives ideal safe driving for Delhi and other parts north India due to Fog/Smog weather conditions.
> Good performance in Highways with good balance, its ture their slogan Drive me crazy…..
> Minimum noise while driving and gives silky drive
> Good Braking technology, smooth front disc barke on left side which is unique from other bikes.
>Rear Gas Shocks with 6 stage adjustable positions
> And Finally world class Suzuki engine with State of Art technology for Indian roads
Negative Aspects (-)
? Handle is hard and feel strain after long drive, perhaps this may due to new bike and need time to settle down (somebody can give expertise guidance)
? Cannot able to turn withn short radius
? Drowsy kickstart, need every time to pull out kicker with hands
? Manual Choke, need to position back manually before ride
? Shocks sets for Highway drive and feels on horseback when you drive rough Indian roads locally, perhaps we may need to set 6 stage adjustable schock positions, come out from factory in 3rd stage.
? Come without tubeless tyres (Perhaps life span of tubeless tyres are shorter than regular ones)
Milage – Before 1st Service in Delhi roads around 52-56 Kmpl, wait for update after 1st service.

@ Satheesh

ur feedback on dat beast was just owsome ..Really helpful post.
After 1st service most of the owners have achieved 60+ mileage ….

Anyway waiting for ur feedback on dat

If you are looking for power and instant pickup, good looks, and decent mileage of 40-45, go for an Apache 160/180 or go for Pulsar 150/180 or CBZx. You need to bend a little to ride these bikes. The Apache is more Sporty and lighter and easy to handle. The pulsar and Cbz are bulky and muscular. The Apache and Pulsars come with digital gagets and rear disc brake, rear gas-charged shocks, etc, but both engines are not very smooth. The CBZx DOES NOT HAVE a gas-charged rear shock absorber nor digital gagets, and you also need to fold the footrest to use kickstart. So, the Apache and Pulsar are definitely more bang for the buck than CBZx.

If you are looking for smooth ride, good mileage of 50-55, commuter/executive/family bike, then chose either the Unicorn or Suzuki GS150. Good for executives. Both bike have good gradual power, but dont expect instant pickup like Apache or Pulsar in these bikes. Unicorn lacks digtal gagets, but has OLD-TECHNOLOGY MONOSHOCK without linkage. Suzuki GS150 has digital gagets, 6 gears, engine balancer, etc, but lacks monoshock. I feel Suzuki GS150 is currently more value for money than Unicorn. Suzuki should bring out another GS150 without digital speedo and reduce the price

If style is the only thing that matters, then go for the overpriced yamahas, either Fz16, Fazer, or R15. R15 is only 150 cc bike WITH LINKAGE MONOSHOCK, but R15 is for sporty riding only and very very expensive. The fz and fazer only look good, but lack pickup and give less mileage of 35-40. Frankly, the Yamahas are very OVERPRICED.

Just choose a bike that meets your requirements.

This post not only have good review, but the comments are also just superb…

Should I go for Enfield or GS ?

@ syam

go ahead wid ur choice .. u wont get disappointed

@ myself.cc

Enfield and GS are totally different bikes … Enfield with a 350cc engine it gives you good riding comfort. The body weight gives d rider, d confidence to ride over 100km/hr (infact the breaking at this stage is disappointing with the drum brakes). But Enfield is Enfield. It cant be replaced with any 150 cc bikes in India. It gives a mileage roughly around 35 km/l whereas GS with 50+. Details of GS is mentioned above. Its u to choose your beast..

Hi,
I’m very new to biking and I recently bought GS. I have few questions that the salesman was not able to answer. The bike has separate oil reservoir for shockers and probably for engine(m not sure about engine, but salesman said so). What’s exact purpose of these reservoirs and do they need to get refilled at some point of time? If yes, then which sort of oil and how frequently?
Secondly, there is a problem. Sometimes, the gear indicator near tachometer goes blank. It normally happens when I’m shifting to neutral gear (from first or second gear). It seems that probably it is not able to detect that whether bike is in neutral or not. However, this happens only sometimes and gear indicator continues to work well when i further shift gears. The problem seems to be near neutral gear only. Is it normal behavior or it’s a fault in the bike?
Please put some light on these issues.

@ ashoka

I havnt heard any complaints as such …Its better to take ur GS to the showroom and ask them to rectify it… GS is coming with a gear indicator of digital display. May be some electronic failure makes it blank ..

GS is coming with an air cooled engine. I haven’t heard abt any oil reservoir on the engine..

Hi Karthik,
Can you tell me something about the oil reservoirs for shockers. What’s their exact purpose and do they need some refilling. If yes, then if you can give and idea of how frequently and which type of oil should be refilled.
Secondly, while listing negatives of GS, Satheesh wrote: “Manual Choke, need to position back manually before ride”. What is ‘Choke’ and what does it do? How do i locate it in my bike? What’s disadvantage of a manual choke? Do I need to set it everytime or even sometimes before ride? If yes, then how do I set it? Actually, I’m very new to biking and don’t know anything about choke.

hi, karthik,,,,,, hmmmm, so that are ur suggestions…. anyways do u know the price of the bike in kerala?

Suzuki GS150R is the best bike in its class of 150cc. I bought this bike 2 months ago. That time I was quite confuse about which bike to buy. Earlier i made up my mind to buy Honda Unicon as i like the smoothness of this bike. But after few research & analysis i came to know about GS150R. I took a test drive of this bike. After driving for about a km i made my mind that i am going to buy this bike only.

Engine was so smooth…… no sound at all. Now after 1st servicing u will enjoy its ride as u can drive on higher speed. Pick up is amazing….u gona love this

Look is also very good. Go for black colour.

So, i would like to suggest all my friends that those who are planning to buy a bike of 150cc engine then u should check this one….atleast go for a test drive.

hi kaarthik,,,,
any idea on how much gs 150 costs in kerala?

superb

Another problem I am facing with GS150 is transmission, the chain gets loose every 500-600 KM’s.
I own a GS150 for last 6 month’s, there must be a design issues with these bike. I also heard few more people complaining about this while in service center.

it seems to be a good one but lot of designs are copied from other bikeslike pulsar &unicorn 6 gear an highlight tail lamps looks god we may trust the engine because its suzuki

In India…. even if people sell hayabusa for 50K people will think n blink atleast for a second before buyin and what’s Running on their mind is Availablity of parts… service center………

That’s Y you see a million Pulsar’s in North India
Equally large no of Apache’s n Pulsar’s In south India…
Apart from these, their only favorable choice would be the Hero Honda’s the cycle manufacturer turned Motor Company…….Lolz….

Sluggish Is’nt……
Honda Uni is the only vehicle which survived the market for a long time apart from all the above mentioned player’s……… Coz Uni is best in wot it does and reliable…

So you wont see a GS where ever you want to……..
Owner of these bikes are some who thinks, all the parts screwed in the bike will not fall down or get bad as we ride every 5 kms so we wont need a service station every 5 kms in wherever we Go……..

Well, some bloggers are asking why they dont see many Suzuki GS150s on the road. Ask yourself this question: How many CBZx or Hunks do you see on the road daily?

Cbzx and Hunk bikes are being sold since 3 to 4 years, yet we dont see many CBZx or Hunks on the road. Gs150 is not even a year since its launch, but I see more GS150s on the road than Hunks.

Of course, we cant see many Gs150s on the road compared with Pulsar, Apache, or Unicorn, which have been in the market for 7 to 6 years. Slowly but surely, GS150r is gaining market share, especially in the commuter/executive segment directly competing with Unicorn and Hunk.

@ RAVS

What rayden44 and Antony said is correct.. I agree to their point of view ..

Test drive the bike(s) of Ur choices…….

And Pursue what you heart says…. that’s the bottomline

Coz u r gonna be on it… more than anyone else………

tnx guys for ur support….

all d best RAVS .. tc

Hey Guys,

I am back and back with the news that I hve bought GS150. Not only that but I also have driven about 1400 KM in two weeks as my daily run is 70 + local. I am done with the 1st service till that have maintained RPM of 4500. Now as it is done I am keeping around 5000. (is it okey or need to reduce or increase?)

Wat ever I have read found it to be true but still it’s too early to say that, may be. Now have to chek for the top speed and the vibration if exists.

Thanks to u all guys..

Kartik and rayden let me know on RPM which i shall adhere till what killometer.

rgrds,
ravs….

@ KISHORE KUMAR

What r u expecting from a 150cc byk?
Style ? Mileage ? Performance ? (hope you will answer to this)

First of all u have to test ride all 150cc bike to make sure, which 1 is giving you comfort wyl ryding.

I think Suzuki GS150R will satisfy ur needs. Unicorn, Pulsar etc are other options from my side..

@ ravs

Sub : Changing gears @ 7000 rpm

Do it only to check ur top speed. Doin it regularly myt kill ur engine

hey all
dude’s jus gimme a suggestion 4 a gud bik n all terms lik look,stylish,mileage,engine n speed i prefer gs150r frm suzuki any othr byk betta dan dis plzz do reply………..

hi Mahesha

Though Suzuki GS150R gives the best mileage in this class, its not der in ur options. And thats the only reason y ‘m not suggesting GS. But wen a Unicorn is given space in ur option list, I wonder why GS150R didnt had any. Both are like twin brothrs (but GS with an xtra gear).

Taking three of ur criteria into consideration, I wud short list ur options to Unicorn and Bullet 350

If u r looking for good mileage, I think u have to choose either Pulsar or Unicorn. Both gives an average of 50-60km/l. Unicorn have better mileage (but some of ma friends gets only 40km/l in new Unicorn).. I have to mention, on long drives Unicorn is better than Pulsar in comfort.

Avenger and Bullet 350.. Without any doubt we can say Bullet 350 is the best. But both of them wont give u gud mileage when compared with d bykz mentioned above. Bullet gives average of 30-45 km/l…But these ones gives u comfort on long drive, especially the BULLET

Concluding…
For which criteria u give the priority.
1) Mileage or 2)Comfort

For mileage, choose UNICORN
For comfort, choose BULLET 350

These two are my suggestions

@ ravs

nice to hear from you. Smooth n steady drive @ 104 sounds good on a 150cc…(Gud wrk Suzuki, and you too ravs for maintaing it well)

Its not the speed u have to maintain. Maintain the engine rpm. On whatever gear u drive, maintain ur rpm @ 4500-5500. This gives more engine life. (In 6th gear with this rpm rate, ur speedometer myt display 55-65km/hr)

Hope u wud again give ur feedback on each n every tiny noticeable things dat happen on ur GS.

Drive safetly ravs

@ Mahesha

GS does not have d mono suspension in it. But d Unicorn does have. And so the Unicorn will be better for long drives. But we cannot say GS wont give you comfort. The shock absorber of GS is pretty gud than other 150cc bikes without mono shock..

ravs, wat do u think ?

Hi im Ali from Pakistan i need 1 speed meter of suzaki full set and bady there to send me 1 speed meter plz i need it .if any bady there who want to send me so plz emial me on this ID tashan_as@yahoo.com thank you very much bye bye

@baban108

Suzuki GS 150R
After 4k on the ODO i can surely say GS 150 is the most probable…. Its got everything that and Indian biking requires.
I rate it as the best in its 150 class not just for the mileage but for its engine refinement and handling and overall quality. Mileage is just a bonus.

Pulsar 150
Its better than a pulsar anyday.. Coz world knows the life of a Dtsi engines. And you have to make a lot of compromise on Build quality. Intial pickup on this engine is good and not the best.

HeroHonda CBZ extreme
My frank opinion this machine is not worth its cost.. anytime of the year.. engine is good coz its Honda’s.. The rest… No comments.. I could raise a question on handling… yes..
Verdict = Overall package is poor, but i love its tail lamp.

Unicorn

Now talking about the sibling.
GS has price difference of +3k over this vehicle
for 3k you get
+
Digital Speedo
6 speed Engine.. (6 gears over 5 on Uni)
Engine Balancer Tech… (Low Vibrations at High RPM’s and high speed’s, Honestly very low)
LED tail lamp (Like you have in Xtreme)

And you dont get
-
Mono Suspention.

Engine of both Uni and GS is well refined and both are commuters fantansy and racers diplomacy.
They say Bullet is the most comfortable bike and its a real cruiser and it doesn have Mono shock.. Yes comfort relies on varius other factors but shocks play a major role.,, See the difference. Both the bikes have similar styling and i would give one up on GS in this.

Left one more difference, GS is taller and heavier than Uni.
Its left you bettween choosing a Sad old faced sibling or newly designed bright faced GS

*** the above comments were just my personal point of view and i regeret if it disturbes anyone of yours***